AI in Cosmetic Product Development - Why The Industry Isn’t There Yet

AI in Cosmetic Product Development - Why The Industry Isn’t There Yet

Joanna Dafovski

Like many other industries, Artificial Intelligence is becoming a visible part of cosmetic product development conversations, yet its role remains limited in practice. While algorithms can assist with trend analysis, ingredient research, and early formulation concepts, cosmetics is still a highly tactile, sensory, and regulatory-driven field. 

Factors like skin feel, real-world stability, consumer perception, and regional compliance rely heavily on human judgment, lab testing, and experiential feedback. 

Artificial Intelligence in its current state can support decision making, but cannot yet replace bench work, iterative testing, or the nuanced expertise of formulators who understand how ingredients behave together over time.

The Science Behind Cosmetic Development

When it comes to the science behind cosmetic development, AI struggles to account for the complexity of how formulas behave in real-world conditions. Cosmetic chemistry involves interactions between ingredients that change based on concentration, processing order, temperature, shear, and even the material of the packaging. 

Texture, stability, spread, absorption, and long-term performance cannot be fully predicted by models alone because many outcomes only emerge during physical bench work and aging studies, of which the outputs are not made publicly available to be fed into mainstream AI training models. 

Lab adjustments often rely on sensory evaluation and hands-on troubleshooting that data models cannot replicate. Without the ability to observe phase separation, viscosity drift, oxidation, or subtle skin feel changes over time, AI remains limited in its ability to replace the scientific judgment and iterative testing that underpin safe, effective cosmetic products.

The Human Aspect of Cosmetic Product Development

The human aspect of cosmetic product development remains essential because so many decisions depend on experience, intuition, and direct interaction with the product itself. 

Formulators rely on touch, visual cues, and repeated use to assess texture, absorption, finish, and wear in ways that cannot be fully captured by data alone. Development also involves judgment calls shaped by years of trial, error, and pattern recognition, such as knowing when a formula needs adjustment versus when a process variable is the issue. Beyond the lab, collaboration between R&D, regulatory teams, suppliers, and brand partners requires context, negotiation, and creative problem solving. 

These human inputs shape product outcomes in ways AI cannot yet replicate, particularly when balancing performance, compliance, cost, and consumer expectations at the same time.

AI Can’t Effectively Imitate True Creativity.

Creativity plays a central role in cosmetic development, and it remains an area where AI falls short. Building a product is not only about assembling compatible ingredients, but about interpreting cultural shifts, visual cues, and emotional responses that influence how people connect with colour, texture, scent, and finish. 

Decisions such as how a product should feel on first contact, how it should look under different lighting, or how it fits into a broader collection come from human imagination and lived experience. These ideas often emerge through experimentation, conversation, and instinct rather than data patterns.

Creative development also involves risk taking and subjective judgment. Many standout products begin as ideas that do not align with past performance data or existing formulas. 

Formulators and brand teams often push beyond what has worked before, guided by intuition and hands-on trials that evolve in unpredictable ways. AI can reference what already exists, but it cannot originate concepts rooted in emotion, storytelling, or cultural relevance. Until machines can interpret stylistic taste, aesthetics, and human desire with the same depth as people, creativity in cosmetics will remain firmly driven by human vision.

Until AI systems can reliably account for these variables and connect digital predictions with physical outcomes, their role will remain supportive rather than central. For now, AI works best as a tool alongside experienced teams, not as a standalone driver of cosmetic innovation.

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